Five and a half million vehicles are currently registered in Beijing, and especially in the last three or four years, the number of motorcycles in the Chinese capital has also increased significantly. That does not include the many little Chinese scooters, on which the butcher in the outskirts delivers the pork halves or with whom all these uncles in the neighborhood are giving three or four kids a lift to school – all without a helmet, the ride without lights and as protective clothing everyone a pair of flip flops…

No, more and more “real” motorcycles can be seen on the streets, the obligatory rice burner from Japan, occasionally a tourer, maybe even a BMW, and very rarely a Ducati; especially Harleys are on the rise – also the Chinese have fallen for the chrome, the sound and the image of freedom on two wheels. And with these bikes also comes the club culture as we know it in the West. The origin of this subculture in Beijing although can be traced back to traditional sidecars. These special bikes have been used in the Chinese military since the 1960s; the construction details for these machines where originally shared by the Russians, who in turn imitated BMW’s mid 1930s R71 after WW2 – these bikes were known under the name “Ural” or “Dnjepr”. In China, it was given the name “Changjiang 750” or “CJ” in short. “Changjiang” stands for “Long River”, the way locals call the Yangtze River, the longest river in China.

They became popular when – after their service in the military – some mechanics built up a small workshop and started to deal with CJs and corresponding spare parts. Also, the early sidecars were technically improved, especially in the 1990s. 12 volt three-phase alternators were added, an electric starter, disc brakes – the classic look from the 1930s in combination with modern components certainly attracted some attention. Old bikers still like to talk about the heydays of the scene in the early 2000s: the bar district Sanlitun was the place to meet on weekends. 100, sometimes 150 bikers gathered there regularly with their sidecars. A small chat, a beer or two, exchanging spare parts, preparing a ride the next day… All in all a very relaxing atmosphere. “Southtown Boys”, “Snow Wolves”, “Beijing Dragons” or “Red Medal”, that’s how the guys named themselves back then. Only little was organized, usually the owner of a workshop simply drummed up his clients, suggested a route and provided a mechanic – the old CJs were and still are somewhat prone to breakdowns, especially at high temperatures in summer. That means no MCs in the real sense, no vests, no colors, just a few guys on their sidecars. Some of these guys, members of the “Bullfroggies Beijing Sidecar Club”, even organized a parade of 317 bikes and sidecar machines in the summer of 2004 – and managed to get listed in the Guinness Book of World Records!

In the run-up to the 2008 Beijing Olympics, however, all this was put a stop to it. Some say that the authorities wanted to avoid any memories of wartime during this major event. In fact, said Sanlitun pub district was also partially drained, Changjiang owners were no longer licensed, and bikes on the streets even confiscated. In 2008, Beijing was actually “sidecar-free”, no more weekend fun or rides to the nearby mountains…

It was not until 2009 that the official sale and trading of CJs was allowed again in Beijing, and as of this year, also more and more Harleys were cruising the roads; Above all, mainly expats – usually Westerners who spend a certain amount of time in the Chinese capital – got themselves heavy motorcycles and started to explore the roads. Around that time, also the idea of founding MCs became popular. Like the “Long March MC”, for example. These guys started in 2006 as a sidecar club, in 2009 they “upgraded” from three to two wheels and since then, the LMMC has more or less developed into a pure Harley club. 2010 came the patch. The members are from China, the US, Australia, Russia and… “… one comes from an island, I just do not know exactly which one, haha,” says Clay, president of the “Long March MC”. He is originally from Alabama, USA, lived in Stuttgart/Germany in the 1970s and has been in Beijing since 2004, 2005. So he knows the scene in the US and in Germany and he agrees that there is still a lot of educational work to be done in China: “We are trying to spread the motorcycle culture here; Loyalty, brotherhood, but also road safety and knowledge about motorcycles. We spread this through Chinese media, but also through personal example.”

That this knowledge and the basic idea of an MC is still relatively new in China is confirmed by Yoyo. He is originally from Hamburg/Germany and is president of the “Expendables`”, founded 2010 in Beijing. “This is definitely a new phenomenon here in China, and that has pros and cons. People here are relatively open, there is almost no confrontation with negative cliches, but curiosity and general interest. A disadvantage is, for example, that motorcycle riding here is relatively unknown as a hobby: a motorcycle is simply a means of transport and transportation. Also, regarding proper bikes, there’s a lot of money involved: Harleys and other big bikes here are just very expensive.”

For about one year, the “Expendables’ ” and the “Long March MC” are already joining up for rides or checking out events, like in September 2013 at a tattoo event with Ed Hardy in the 798 art district. They consider themselves as “brother clubs” and maintain the same ideals: “Our two clubs are not just an expensive hobby. Not at all, and that may make us different from other clubs here”, says Yoyo. Moreover, both LMMC and EMC are multicultural as far as members are concerned. However, Clay of the Long Marchers emphasizes that it is still not easy to be affiliated: “It took the last one more than a year to become a full member. And as we just talked about brotherhood: this concept of sacrificing for other brothers (in the club), this form of loyalty is in my opinion not originally part of the Chinese culture. ”

Before becoming a member or even a “hang around”, one of course needs a bike. And, as already mentioned, they are usually one thing above all: expensive. A new Harley Sportster 883, for example, is currently available for about 100,000 RMB (roughly 12.000,- Euro). Then there is the problem of license plates – since 2013, the Beijing city government is no more handing out licenses for motorcycles that are allowed to be driven in the center of the capital. In other Chinese cities and districts, the administration has even banned motorcycles from the streets or equated them with electric bicycles or scooters. That means they cannot enter certain main roads or (city) highways. The official explanation: protecting the environment and reducing traffic. And in Guangzhou, a city down in Southern China known in other corners of the world also as “Kanton”, motorcycles from other cities or parts of the country are not even allowed to cross the city limits…

But let’s stay in Beijing: In 2009, the costs for a license plate with a validity of 12 years and the permission to drive in the city center was 12.000,- RMB (just under 1.500, – Euro). Today, as new plates are currently not available, the price for used ones went up to 75.000,- RMB (about 9.000, – Euro)! Considering this, the idea of using fake plates might occur, but in the event of a police check or an accident, that means lots and lots of trouble – and also that the bike would get confiscated.

Liang Jun of the “HC 8 MC” is aware of this problem, but he takes it rather calmly: “There are relatively few big motorcycles here, and if you are not fooling around big time, the police is way too busy tacking care of normal traffic.”

The club’s name “HC 8” derives from Chinese language. “HC – huan che” more or less means something like “changing/customizing”. And the number “8” is pronounced “ba”, which sounds a bit like a Chinese term for “club”. Founded in early 2013, this MC consists of nearly 50 Chinese members and only 6 foreigners – but they have nearly 5.000 followers on Weibo, the largest microblogging service in China, similar to Twitter. Most of these guys ride Harleys. The Milwaukee motorcycles are officially sold in China since 2005, but before that, some of these bikes found their way into the country packed in parts and pieces and being brought over some national border, as Sun Hu, president of the “HC 8” might have heard a while ago.

Of course, the guys of “HC 8” also enjoy the pleasure of riding out, almost every weekend they are on the road, a trip to the mountains in the north of the capital or through the suburbs in the east is always fun. Unlike LMMC and EMC, however, no special criteria for new members are necessary at the moment, like the president explains: “Well, we just started, the whole thing is still a bit new. Of course, new guys have to fit in, but otherwise anyone with a good bike can ride with us at least once. However, we are currently considering introducing certain rules. What we do in any case: anyone who is riding with us gets a briefing on road safety.”, said Sun Hu.

That certainly does not hurt in Beijing, especially at peak times before 9am and after 5pm it can happen that annoyed and stressed drivers use the bicycle lane or even the sidewalk in order to avoid endless traffic jams and lines of cars during rush hour. Furthermore, little consideration is given to weaker or disadvantaged road users – the bigger or more expensive car usually claims the right of way, and traffic lights are sometimes only considered as simple recommendations. That means one has to adapt to the local conditions quickly and being always on alert. “HC 8” biker Liang Jun says that one day they would like to do rides outside of China as well, and that in general would already help and improve riding safely just by comparing how things are done in other countries.

Motorcycle safety, anticipatory driving, prudent behavior, these basic characteristics are also something that Clay (LMMC) and Yoyo (EMC) want to impart in Beijing in the future. The two “brother MCs” want to emphasize the importance of security, not only within their own clubs, but also with others. But the two have even more ideas, like Yoyo explains: “The concept of MCs has a long tradition in the US, as well as in Germany. Here in China, on the other hand, family has priority, and so for many of us expats, the club has become something of a substitute to that. But we are “old school”, that’s how we handle things, just like the guys from LMMC. We may not have that much money, and some of us just have old bikes that break down again and again. But we make the best of it, jump on our bikes and off we ride.”. “That’s exactly it,” says Clay, “that’s what makes a real biker; ‘Ride and party’ with your buddies and trust the guy next to you.”

So how about plans for the future? Both definitely want to make motorcycle culture more popular in China, maybe thanks to a film festival, says Clay. But it is difficult, everything has to be organized more or less in anonymity, because the authorities here are just, well: very authoritarian. But that, in turn, says Yoyo, makes it so exciting – there’s always room for new stories. But one thing is clear: “We are a 3-patch club, and there is a certain tradition and a certain protocol, which is not always followed by other clubs in Beijing or in China. Speaking of simply buying a vest and colors, for example. Personally, I have always been impressed by the old clubs from the 60s and 70s. It is a certain form of subculture, with which I can identify much better, more than with the prevalent one in Germany in the past 15, 20 years. Moreover, it’s all new here in China, which gives you the opportunity to lead the club the way you think it is right. ”

And Clay from Alabama adds: “That’s the way it is, I think it’s even a kind of ’70s revival here. Namely in the sense of what actually makes a motorcycle club a club. But it’s hard to uphold the standards: Like when another biker gets left behind, I’ll stop and help. And then it goes on with the boys and we just enjoy riding, and in the evening a little party…!”

An example that things are not always easy here is the following, and it’s one that doesn’t come to the mind the first moment: “We wanted to build a clubhouse,” says Clay. “We had to give up ours recently. But try to build or rent a space here as a MC, where all property belongs to the state by law … “.

So it certainly is very special here, the biker scene in Beijing/China. But maybe that’s also why it’s so exciting, fascinating and entertaining! And because the scene in Beijing is quite unique, there are always special examples to be found, like the MC “185”: the members are all models or artists and famous in China in the field of fashion, film and music. Accordingly, the “185ers” are seen in videos, at charity events, or even at bigger events such as the recent Han Fu Cultural Festival. One of the criteria to get in to the club, though: a member must be at least 185 cm tall – hence the name.

First published in German in BikersNews 05/14